One of the smallest of all Madeira producers, and only founded in 1946 by Ricardo's grandfather, and yet with an extraordinary reputation.

Ricardo Diogo de Freitas took over the winemaking at the family firm in 1993, and hasn't looked back. He possesses energy in spades - eRobertParker calls him the Island's "Gamechanger" and its easy to see why, but risks overlooking his commitment to tradition, or at least the reinvention of it.

"I find the aroma of the Barbeito wines so much harder to describe because they are very much themselves, distinctive, not a prototype Madeira - even though they are also distinctively Madeira, if that makes any sense."

- Julia Harding MW, on www.jancisrobinson.com, on the 2014 Annual Madeira tasting, where the top two scoring wines were both Barbeito.

So, Ricardo has been the first to install robotic lagares on the island, the first to bottle vineyard specific Tinta Negra (his Single Harvest, which has to be tasted to be believed), the first to not bottle anything with added caramel, and so the list goes on. Single Cask bottlings, whilst thought of as revolutionary on Madeira, when Ricardo launched the first one (in modern times) in 2003, were really only inspired by the way things were done in older times.

Grapes from various quality vineyards from Jardim da Serra and Ribeira da Janela were used. Grapes were pressed in a continuous press. Arresting of fermentation takes place at the desired degree of sweetness by adding vinic alcohol (96%)

Sercial aged in French oak casks from 10 up to 14 years by Canteiro method. For this blend Barbeito select wines from their warehouses with stable temperatures year round that originate wines very well balanced in sugar and acidity.

This wine was naturally aged in casks and bottled in its purest state. To show it at its best serve between 11ºC and 12ºC. Should be kept in a cool
dry place. This wine was filtered and does not require decanting. It was bottled ready for drinking and will keep well several months after opening.

Excellent as an aperitif. with Oysters, French Onion Soup, Octopus Salad, Parmesan cheese, with sautéed mushrooms with garlic and Olives.

"Fresh, with barley sugar aromas. Pure and arrow-like, concentrated but elegant. Tastes intensely dry. Goes on and on." Julia Harding MW, www.jancisrobinson.com, 17 points.