92 Jancis Robinson Points for a legendary Brunello from the infamous GAJA estate
The 2017 shows charming notes of juniper berries, liquorice and sweet wood to greet your nose upon approaching this wine. It has a very clear expression of rich and ripe cherry and strawberry fruit, opening on the palate with notes of spice and earthy aromatic herbs. This wine has remarkable texture, mouth-watering fruit and a phenomenal length.
The pioneering Gaja family has been growing vines and making wine for five generations, a tradition they started in 1859 in Piedmont. Each generation nurtures the dreams and vision of the previous one, building and innovating for the next. Above all, they are inspired by respect for nature and believe attention to detail is paramount. Without a doubt,the name Gaja is synonymous with innovation and each generation has brought something new. Clotilde Rey drove the direction of quality, her son Giovanni continued this legacy as well as acquiring some of the best vineyards in Barbaresco including the three ‘crus' for which Gaja is best known: Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn and Costa Russi. Angelo introduced new methods with higher density planting, green harvesting, lower yields, temperature controlled vinification, shorter macerations, large barrique ageing and longer corks. While their home remains in the beautiful village of Barbaresco, more recent adventures have taken them to Tuscany where the Pieve Santa Restituta Estate in Montalcino produces a stunning Brunello, and to Ca'Marcanda in Bolgheri.
The Pieve Santa Restituta estate was acquired by the Gaja family in 1994. The "white," rocky soils of this area, in the southwest subzone of the Brunello di Montalcino appellation, were abandoned long ago by the sharecropper mezzadri farmers. But while other crops struggled in the rugged, nutrient-poor terrain, it has proven ideal for the cultivation of grapes destined to become fine wine. The historic estate, named for the parish church (pieve in Italian) of Saint Restituta, covers 16 hectares and produces a classic blended Brunello di Montalcino and two vineyard-designated wines, Brunello di Montalcino Sugarille and Brunello di Montalcino Rennina. The property's entire 40 acres have been dedicated to Sangiovese, perhaps the most well-known of the indigenous Italian grape varieties.
The grapes from the different vineyards are fermented and macerated separately for three weeks. They are then aged in oak for 24 months before being blended and then aged for another six months in concrete vats.
Fantastic paired with roast meats, wild game and hard cheeses.
92 points - Jancis Robinson
