95 points Tim Atkin - "An exceptional wine. Beautiful, deep-red ruby colour, with the bright sheen of great Burgundies."
The 2016 crop was low in quantity but its quality provides a nice surprise. Mature grapes gave deep ruby-coloured wines displaying notes of black fruit mingled with hints of violet and spices. The palate is round and generous presenting a wine typical of their terroir.
In 1880, Joseph Drouhin, who was from the Chablis region originally, chose the city of Beaune to found the business that bears his name. Over the years and with each generation, the vineyard estate grew. At the same time, the founder's passionate search for excellence and knowledge was handed down like a family heirloom; Maison Joseph Drouhin continues to ensure this valuable family heritage. Dedication to the diversity of Burgundy has always been the sole focus and vocation of Maison Joseph Drouhin, as vineyards - mostly premier and grand crus - were acquired in all major areas. Out of firm conviction, Drouhin has adopted a biological and biodynamic approach to viticulture. Listening to nature: from vine to glass, at every step in the elaboration of the wine, a profound respect and deference to nature prevails. From its very beginning, Maison Joseph Drouhin has aimed for an ideal of perfection and elegance. The style of Joseph Drouhin combines balance, harmony and character, providing infinite pleasure.
Thanks to its open-minded world view, Joseph Drouhin introduces the best of Burgundy to all continents. Its active presence in many countries is the surest proof of its desire to get acquainted and
understand other cultures and styles of living.
Site: at the southern end of the Beaune appellation, next to Pommard. The Drouhin vineyard is at mid-slope, on a mild incline with an east/south-east exposure. It is the largest parcel of the Clos des Mouches (14 hectares - 35 acres), one half planted with chardonnay, the other half with pinot noir.
History & tradition: the name "mouches" means flies. There were once bee-hives in this sun-drenched "clos" (vineyard enclosure); the bees in the local dialect were called "mouches à miel" (honey flies), hence the name Clos des Mouches. It is one of the first vineyards acquired by Maurice Drouhin (the founder's son) in the 1920's. With great determination, he bought 41 different parcels from 8 proprietors. It is planted equally in red and white grapes and both wines have achieved mythical status for the House of Joseph Drouhin.
Soil: clay and limestone. Rocky soil in the upper part of the vineyard. At the center, the soil is limestone and marl. This light composition is responsible for the great finesse of the wine.
Domaine area: 6.75 ha. (16.875 acres). Average age of the vines: 39 years.
Harvesting: by hand, in small open crates in order to preserve the integrity of the fruit. Sorting of the grapes: in the vineyard and at the cuverie (winery) if necessary. Maceration: maceration and vinification take 2 to 3 weeks indigenous yeasts maceration and fermentation temperatures under total control Joseph Drouhin seeks total control of the process of extraction; extraction gives colour and substance to a wine but should never be detrimental to its finesse and typical character. "Pigeage" (punching down of the cap during fermentation): once a day until half of fermentation is done; one pumping over (remontage) per day till the end of the fermentation. Pressing: separation of free run juice from pressed juice.
To drink with Meat or mushroom-based pasta or rice dishes, Meat-based appetizers.
95pts Tim Atkin (MW): "People forget that Clos des Mouches produced its first red wine in 1921 - seven years before Drouhin made a white - but the quality of the two is often of equal stature. If anything, I slightly prefer the red version in 2016, which combines a touch of whole bunch spice with refined oak and silky red berry fruit. 2020-28." (01/2018)