This was the third vintage with mildew pressure, but the team are now experienced, and I can attest to seeing the vines during harvest and remarking on how healthy they looked, with no-till farming helping concentration. Plenty of tannins give structure and are shot through with sinew and juice, this is an impressive wine from technical director Mathieu Bessonet, with Pauillac typicity.

An in-house tisanerie for the advance preparation of biodynamic treatments, a policy of no-plough and grass between the rows (to absorb as much rain as possible) did the trick, alongside ceaseless monitoring of the bunches. Alfred Tesseron says they were only down 15% on expected yield. As usual, SO2 use is heavily reduced and 35% of the crop is aged in concrete amphorae. This has let the fruit sing, with relaxed aromas of hedgerow, lavender, peony and more savoury hints of coffee and leather. There is no lack of concentration, and every element feels well proportioned.